One of the most frequent questions we get here at GF is how to apply Glaze Effects. Water based products dry faster than oil based finishes. And this is especially true of glazes. So our first tip; If you’re going to be finishing a large area, or working in low humidity, Add General Finishes Extender to give you more dry time to wipe the glaze off. That’s about 2 ounces of Extender per pint of Milk Paint. Remember, glazes dry quickly. So when working with glazes, adjust your thermostat to 70 degrees. And here are the tools you’ll need: Bristle brushes, foam brushes, pad applicator, blue shop towels, and a damp cloth. The first demo will be to apply Pitch Black Glaze over Corinth Blue Milk Paint With a seal coat of High Performance Top Coat in between. -Cheryl… What I’m going to do is put some Pitch Black on this door. And I’m going to start in the center. And I’m going to put it on with a foam poly brush. This works great for getting in the corners. And also in these deep grooves. And I want to get enough on here. That I can get a nice even wipe. There we go. Now I’m going to wipe it off with a blue shop towel. These are very absorbent so they really great for this. And I’m just going to wipe all the glaze off. And I’m going to keep turning my towel so I have a clean spot. Just like that. I’m just going to tough this edge up here. Now once you wipe the glaze, you don’t want to re-wipe because it’s actually going to keep moving it arounnd So, once I wipe, I move on to the next part. And I’m going to start on the outside now. And I’m just going to get my glaze on here. And because I have that High Performance on, my glaze really glides along the top. It makes it a little easier to wipe off. The only time I really don’t use any top coat before I glaze, is if I want it real rustic looking. Otherwise, you just don’t have enough time to wipe. I’m going to start on the inside edge here. And then I’m going to go with the grain along the top. And on the bottom. And then I’m just going to put a little more glaze on here. So I can wipe the other edge. And I’m going to hit this edge too. And then I;m going to work with the wood grain. And here’s how it looks! Here are two finished doors using two different techniques. On the first door, the glaze was applied directly to the paint. The second, has top coat under the glaze. We also did some distressing on both of these doors. And you can clearly see the difference in color saturation. The next question is, ” Whoops, I goofed! How can I fix it? ” – Well, keep a bottle of water and your damp cloth handy at all times. We have some techniques coming up with Sheryl. Tip number one: Immediately apply glaze if its still wet. On this one, I’m going to wipe off my glaze. And if the glaze is still wet, I can actually put on more glaze. As long as it’s still workable, you can apply the glaze right over the top of your existing glaze. And re-wipe it. Tip number two: if you need to make minor adjustments on a piece and the surface is still wet, Just wipe off the areas with a damp cloth and immediately apply more glaze. You can see I put the glaze on here, I got a little heavy right in the middle I don’t like it as well as I should, so I think I’m just going to remove it with this damp cloth. If you have finish underneath, like we do; on this one we have a coat of High Performance. The glaze will come right off. And then, I’m going to immediately re-apply my glaze. And do it again. That looks much better. Tip number three: If the glaze is already dry, you can adjust the glaze color by scuff sanding with a 220 sanding pad or a Scotch Brite pad. i’m just going to rub a little bit of this off and reveal a little more of the paint color underneath. This works great for just taking a little more of the color off. Perfect Tip number four: If all else fails, simply start over by prepping the surface and repainting. Glazes do need to be sealed with a top coat. Let the glaze dry 1-2 hours before applying. And a last note: All of GF’s retail water based products can be intermixed, so feel free to play.